-
Licence To Serve…
Yesterday I found myself in Newcastle with two fellow Bruichladdich Whisky Adventurers. Our mission was to obtain a licence for serving alcohol in England.
For those of you who do not work in the trade, you may or may not know that it is now illegal to pour alcohol without some kind of authorisation from a licence holder and the laws and rules surrounding said authorisation differ in Scotland and England. These rules are a no doubt a good thing. They promote safety, protect children, prevent crime and public nuisance.They also appear to be working. Despite all of the negativity we see on the news, the actual statistics show us that with the police, the trade, the licensing boards and courts working together, alcohol related crime is in fact DOWN. Many cities in England have seen a reduction by up to 30%! This is because licensing policies are published locally allowing us to target local issues. great news!The downside to these laws is that they are also some of the most boring pieces of legislation out there clearly written by people who have never worked in an off-licence or indeed behind a bar. This leads to some interesting and hilarious rules. (These apply only in England, the Scottish ones will appear after I have completed that course.)Here’s my pick of the things I learned:You’d think the people setting the rules would be qualified, right? Licensing Officers in England do not need to sit the course I have undertaken, but their Scottish counterparts go through rigorous and frequent coursesTo promote responsible drinks promotions the Government have outlined a set of mandatory prohibitions, my favourite of which is “No alcohol is to be dispensed directly into the mouths of consumers.”Premises licences must be obtained for any of the following activities:Selling or supplying alcohol: the self explanatory one.Entertainment: each activity MUST appear on the licence. These include live music, dancing, recorded music, lap dancing, pole dancing but NOT morris dancing as this is the right of every Englishman whether licensed or not. Incidentally one unlucky strip club in England got their licence for dancing, but forgot the one for music. Therefore their girls have to dance in silence.Late night refreshments: Ever wonder why chip shops are shut before you stumble out of the pub? It’s because after 11pm they need a licence despite not selling alcohol!
All of the above leads to some rather unusual places needing licensed, or not as the case may be: most schools and churches are licensed, however Royal Palaces can serve alcohol without a licence (no one has the authority to police them; Government buildings can serve alcohol without a licence (floor plans can be confidential but would have to appear on a licence); Military bases can serve alcohol without a licence (combination of both reasons above); Trains, Planes, Boats and Hovercrafts can serve alcohol without a licence (they pass through many licencing jurisdictions and no-one wants to take responsibility.)So do we all need licenses? No. Members of the public are allowed to organise up to 5 parties for up to 499 guests at which they sell alcohol without a licence.Ever wondered why petrol stations serve booze? It’s because they sell more groceries than petrol. This is calculated as number of items, not value of goods, so that crap coffee and bag of crisps helped keep the beer in the fridge cold.
Under 18’s CANNOT buy the following:cigarettes, alcohol, fireworks, spoons.
Under 16’s CANNOT buy the following:party poppers and Christmas crackers.Under 18’s CAN sell:Alcohol as long as each sale is authorised by a personal licence holder, unless in a restaurant, in which case no authorisation is needed.16 and 17 year olds CAN drink beer, wine and cider with a meal if bought by an adult and consumed under their supervision.Finally you CANNOT serve alcohol to any unsupervised person under the age of 18 in public, in a shop, in a bar but you CAN deliver it to them if they are at home, or if collecting alcohol is part of their job!So the next time you’re in a shop or in a bar, make sure and spare a thought for the poor soul behind the counter who has had to wade through all of this legislation, just so they can bring a smile to your face at the weekend.Cheers,Craig -
Are You Aware of What Goes Into Your Bottle of Whisky?
There’s a big tenth anniversary happening tomorrow the likes of which cannot be ignored. It’s an event that will be of historical interest to most people who find themselves on this page, yet it’s one which most people get by in their day to day lives not really thinking about.

Of course I am talking about Bruichladdich bottling their first ten year old since re-openning their gates back in 2001.
The resurrection of the Laddie is a fantastic tale of hard work, perseverance, determination, blood, sweat and tears and can be recounted in the brilliant book by Stuart Rivans, Whisky Dream: Waking a Giant. A must read for any fans of Scotch Whisky.
It is not this story I would like to tell today, because as I mentioned, it has already been told quite superbly. It is one I may revisit in future posts though. What I would like to share on the eve of the Bruichladdich 10, is the story of exactly what goes into a bottle of whisky… a story we all (including myself up until last week) think that we appreciate.
I have just come back from a week of working on Islay. A Whisky Adventure like no other. I was invited out to work at Bruichladdich for 4 days, with a day off in the middle to work at Ardbeg. A privilege it was impossible to turn down and one which made me appreciate even more the effort which goes into a bottle of our favourite tipple.
Here’s what we know from various distillery tours:
To call a whisky a Single Malt Scotch Whisky it must,- Be made from malted barley, water and yeast and be fermented with natural enzymes from the barley, no sugar can be added to the mixture
- It must be distilled in copper pot stills
- It must be distilled in Scotland
- It must be matured in Scotland, in oak for a minimum 3 years
- It must be a minimum 40%abv
- It must be the product of one distillery
Now what?
You Malt It:
Barley is brought into a maltings where it is dressed, steeped, germinated and kilned to a distillery’s specifications before being transported to the distillery. We tend to forget the farmers who have to grow the barley to a specific standard, and then sell it to the industry. (Bruichladdich have actually convinced Islay farmers to grow barley on the island for them, this accounts for upwards of 40% of their yield per annum, and has led to a change in rural landscape on Islay.)
You Mill It:
The mashman then mills the barley to a specific grind to ensure he gets the most out of his crop.
You Mash It:
This grist is then mixed with water at a very specific strike temperature (generally 63.5C) to kick-start starch conversion into soluble sugars.
You Ferment It:
The Worts (Useless Information Alert!: short for worthy liquids) are then drained off through an underback, cooled and fed into a washback ready for the addition of yeast to start fermentation. The final waters are recycled and used in the next batch. We miss the use of the excess heat from the cooling process being reused to heat the waters for the next batches. Bowmore even use this heat, as well as heat from other parts of the process for kilning!
You Distil It:
After a few days fermentation, our yeast is spent. The high alcohol beer (7-10%abv) is then ready for distillation. Distillation happens at least twice at Scottish malt whisky distilleries and is used to concentrate the alcohol level to upwards of 70%abv. We don’t get told that the stillman knows which dials are wrong, and which stills generally misbehave. We also never see the fact that a hot still is emptied as a second one is filled, this ensures that the wash is heated and takes less energy to boil. Engineering ingenuity at its best!You Cut It:After distillation, the spirit is cut into the foreshots, heart and feints. This is a process targeting certain aromas in the spirit. It can be measured using hydrometers. These hydrometers are calibrated to 20C, any fluctuation in temperature means we need to cut at different points. Of course, the feints and foreshots are recycled in the next batch.(I must admit, even here, I’ve skimmed over on a lot of detail. This was a recap on what we all knew already. I can go into more detail on these processes, should I get requests for them.)You Mature It:
This spirit is then pumped to the warehouse to be filled, and now the hard work takes on a whole new level!
Most of us are well aware that the Scotch Whisky Industry uses second hand casks for most of its production. This was traditionally a money saving technique, but is also seen as vital to achieving a certain balance in our whiskies. I like to think of casks like teabags, every cup of tea made with a single teabag becomes gradually weaker in strength of flavour and colour, the same goes for casks. Every refill gives less to the whisky. Casks therefore are the most important component in whisky as we know it today. We need to use one for at least 3 years to even label our spirit Scotch!
The question is, how much do you know about our oak?
3 years ago I was invited to Jerez in Spain to learn all about oak, and even got the chance to build a sherry butt with a team of my Whisky peers. This was an eye opening and humbling experience, and still did not cover the whole story!
An oak cask starts it’s life centuries before we even put whisky into it as an acorn. It then grows straight and true in the forests of Europe, America and Japan before being felled to be honourably coopered into vessel for holding whisk(e)y.- The cask I helped to make had been felled in the north of Spain.
- Here it was cut into staves (you get a maximum 2 sherry butts from an oak tree in Spain).
- These staves were then shipped to Jerez in the south
- They were laid to dry in the Spanish sun for 4 years
- Then they were coopered into 500 litre sherry butts by 2 Spanish coopers or 6 random whisky geeks
Coopering involved many stages , including cutting, assembling, adding hoops, wetting, toasting, shaping, adding the ends and testing for pressure and water-tightness.These casks are then filled with wine for a minimum 2 years and we ship 500 litres of Spanish fresh air up to Scotland to fill whisky into. This is similar to the process undertaken by the American and French coopers these days too.Got the story? I thought I had too…It wasn’t until 8:30am on Islay, half-way through breakfast with an ever so slight hangover that I realised I had no idea! Jim McEwen came in, threw some safety gloves at us and told us to get up to the filling store. 240 bourbon barrels had arrived and we, along with the entire Bruichalddich team were there to get them off-loaded and stacked (4 high, 3 without a forklift) so that the lorry could make the next ferry back to the mainland.What a workout. Already a new level of appreciation for the labour in my bottle. Could it get any higher?Of course. We learned at Ardbeg and Bruichladdich that a full bourbon barrel weighs around a quarter of a tonne. And we also learned that shifting them was fun, if there was less than 5 of them! We had to roll these monstrosities onto a loader and turn them with brute force, before spinning them so that when they enetered the rack (9 levels up in the warehouse) they landed bung up…Only NOW can you leave them to mature for your minimum 3 years.After maturation in the Bruichladdich warehouses the casks are then disgorged into a tank before being put back into cask for a further marrying period of at least 6 months.They are then disgorged again before being tankered to the in-house bottling line where they can be bottled, labelled, boxed and shipped out.See that limited edition Bruichladdich sitting on your shelf? The label was probably put on by hand. It may not have appreciated in value on ebay, but hopefully this article will have raised its worth in your eyes and of course in your mouth.So lets all raise a glass to the Progressive Hebridean Distillers!SlainteCraig
p.s. didn’t mention chill filtration or spirit caramel, because Bruichladdich don’t use those techniques…
In my glass: Bruichladdich Sherry Classic -
Archive: Land’s End to John o’Groats: An Adventure - Chapter 1 Preparation
Thursday 26th August 20103 ordinary men working for a curious Society embark on a twelve day journey that will change their perspectives and outlooks on life forever. This is their story.The following is a true story about an epic journey from the UK’s most South westerly point to its most northeasterly extreme. It follows three adventurers armed with nothing but bicycles laden with essential kit; an incredible will to succeed; some overly generous friends and that slight glint of madness (You know the one? It can be easily misconstrued as genius) which when coupled with friendship allows man to overcome any obstacle.If you like the blogs and want to see more please head to http://www.facebook.com/scotchwhiskyambassador to see Craig’s photos and videos.If you really like the content then please donate to their cause by following this link http://www.justgiving.com/raiseaglassPREPARATIONIt was back in December 2009 over a couple of pints when this idea was first aired. Dave and Mark were at a Christmas Party and discussing Dave’s big 30. It was decided that travelling right across the UK from Land’s End to John o’Groats would be a great way to fight the onslaught of time. Unawares of this conversation (I think that Dave and Mark had pushed it to the back of their minds too) I walked into the Vaults in March to get some sponsorship for my Marathon run in May. Dave and Mark were there, and after a couple of beers somehow I too was signed up to cycle Land’s End to John o’Groats THIS SUMMER! I didn’t even have a bike!Anyway, we had agreed to it now, and if there’s one thing we all have in common, it’s an unwillingness to back down from a challenge.The weeks after my marathon run were serious. I needed a bike. And fast. The guys had been putting miles in and I had been running. Not really useful when a 1000 mile cycle is upon you! By June 14th Mark had a new TV for the World Cup, Dave had a new travel guitar and I still needed a bike. Things were going… okay I suppose.
1000 miles…My first new bike arrived in July. I had decided to buy a racer from Tesco. (As if the cycle wasn’t hard enough, I was going to undertake it on a budget bike.) It turns out that using a budget bike to cycle Land’s End to John o’Groats is like picking up an 8 cigarette a day habit the day before you leave or giving Mark the maps or indeed trusting me with the only bottle of soap we have in our possession (More on this later…). I had gone 50 miles before the pedal sheared off. Nightmare. My spanking new blue bike was being shipped back 3 days after arrival. Time was drawing in!
Craig’s First BikeThe end of July was closing in fast, this was our initial leaving window. It just so happens though, that toy wrestling in a pub is not the best way to train for a cycle. Dave’s bruised ribs, although excruciating for him, were actually a Godsend. My second bike had arrived, a beautiful red Giant Defy 3.5 but I would have had no chance to train on it, if it hadn’t been for that suplex in that pub on that night which Dave still can’t remember.
Craig’s Second BikeAs luck would have it, moving the cycle back to the end of August worked out really well. We got to work the Festival and see the World Cup and still had time to throw in a few 80 mile training runs together so we could suss out cycling as a team. It also meant we could get Scotch Malt Whisky Society jerseys ordered, and gather sponsorship.
Training Run in Gifford
Our final training run together was out to Dunbar and back along the foot of the Lammermuir Hills. We finally started to see what could go wrong. We also finally started to see how fit we had become. A flat and a few thunderstorms on that particular run were the perfect way to remind us that 1000 miles is a long way. It also reminded us that there’ll be plenty pubs on the way up.
Training Hard
